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Encyclopaedia of surfing

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Martin Zawilla beim Surfen in Spanien Martin Zawilla beim Surfen in Spanien Martin Zawilla beim Surfen in Spanien

All rights reserved by Martin Zawilla as well as all the texts and all the photos on the website surfnsoul.com. Permission is granted exclusively to the publication of these texts and photos on each page where the publication has a clearly visible link with the following text:
© SURF SCHOOL "surfnsoul.com" · Natural Park of Oyambre · Cantabria · Spain
> linked to: https://surfnsoul.com


A · B · C · D · E · F · G · H · I · J · K · L · M · N · O · P · Q · R · S · T · U · V · W · X · Y · Z


ARIAL: Jump over the wave to re-enter it.


BACKHAND --> BACK-SIDE

BACK-SIDE: Surfing the wave having your back to the wall of the wave.

BACKWASH: A wave reflected back by a steeper edge away from the shore.

BEACHBREAK: Waves breaking on a sandy bottom. Advantages: friendly for beginners, low risk of injury when touching the bottom. Disadvantages: Can be difficult to reach the PEAK, the sandy bottom can change over time and thus the quality of the waves

BLANK: Foam core of a surfboard.

BODYBOARD: Board made from foam and more or less rectangular. To surf lying down or kneeling. Using bodyboard fins on your feet to paddle.

BODYSURFING: Surfing waves off the board only with the body. Requires good fiscal shape. It's a good chance to prepare for learning to surf. Many bodysurfers use fins and some also have a planchette that is carried in one hand.

BOTTOM TURN: Turn at the bottom of the wave to go back up the wave.

BOTTOM: Bottom of the surfboard.


CHANNEL: Area between two PEAKs where waves break but there is usually little current that pulls out to sea. This channel helps experienced surfers get to the PEAK.

CHANNELS: Channels in the bottom of the board to increase buoyancy to float and turn the board better (--> CONCAVE).

CHOPPY: Small waves among the waves and the wall of the wave, caused by local wind. The opposite is called GLASSY which is the best for surfing.

CLOSED OUT: Wave closing, ie, waves that are not surfable as it breaks in all or part of its width at the same time.

RATE ("Coeficiente" in Spanish tide tables): A value between 25 and 115 which is related to the height of the tide. A ratio of 25 indicates a small difference between LOW TIDE and as a coefficient HIGH TIDE of 115 indicates a high difference, ie if we have a ratio of 115 with LOW TIDE it rises more than normal

CONCAVE: The bottom of the board is concave to increase buoyancy to float and turn the board better.

CURL: Between the wave and broken wave (foam) and the wall of the wave that is still unbroken. Advanced surfing on the wall of the wave is adjacent to the CURL.

CUT BACK: Curved path to return to the CURL to return to the vertical part of the wave.


DECK: The top of a surfboard.

DUCK DIVE: Technique to pass a wave that looks like a duck diving. Very efficient but requires good coordination and good balance. Technique which Advanced surfers use ideal with types of boards such as "SHORTBOARD".


ESCIMO ROLL: To pass waves efficiently that is used primarily with LONGBOARDs, MINIMALIBUs and EVOs. You turn the board and pass the wave under the board (similar as in a canoe).

EVOLUTION: Board for surfers whose level is between beginner and advanced. It is smaller than a MINIMALIBU and larger than a SHORTBOARD.


FEET: --> MEASURES

FISH: Type of board that was fashionable in the 70's and came back into in the late 90's. A FISH is wider, shorter and rounder than a SHORTBOARD. Can be rotated easily in small waves

FLOATER: Going over a section of the wave that is already breaking.

FOOT: --> MEASURES

FOREHAND --> FRONT-SIDE

FRONT-SIDE: Surfing down the wave facing the wall.


GLASSY: Good conditions for surfing without wind: Surface water of the waves and the wall is smooth. The opposite is called CHOPPY.

GOOFY FOOT: A person who surfs with his left foot behind and the right foot at the front.

GUN: Long, narrow board, specific for large, hollow waves.


HANG FIVE: Surfing with a foot at the tip of a LONGBOARD and 5 of your toes hanging over the edge.

HANG TEN: Surfing with both your feet at the tip of a LONGBOARD and all 10 of your toes hanging over the edge.

HIGH TIDE: The highest level of the tide (water).


INCH --> MEASURES


J: Any ideas for a word that starts with J ...


KNEE BOARD: Surfing kneeling down on a special board shorter than a surfboard. Fins are worn on KNEE BOARDS.


LEASH: Chord joining the board to the surfer's ankle to retain the board in case of falling.

LEFTHANDER: A wave, seen from the break that is surfable to the left, seen from the beach it is a wave surfable to the right.

LIP: Top of the wall of the wave that is projected forward.

LONGBOARD: Board length between 8 and 10 FEET with a rounded tip.

LOW TIDE: Time of lowest tide (water).


MALIBU: Type of LONGBOARD that has been developed in the 50's on the beach of Malibu.

MEASURES: For surfboards we commonly use the English measurement "FOOT" (abbreviation: ') and INCH (abbreviation:''). A foot corresponds to 30.5 cm and an inch to 2.54 cm. One foot is 12 inches, it is not a decimal system.

MINI MALIBU: Surfboard for beginners. LONGBOARD shape but shorter, it goes between the EVOLUTION and the LONGBOARD


NATURAL FOOT: A person who surfs with his right foot behind and the left to the front.

NORMAL FOOT --> NATURAL FOOT

NOSE: The tip of the surfboard.


OFF SHORE: Wind from the direction of the land that makes the waves break faster and more hollow. Good conditions for surfing. (Otherwise --> ON SHORE)

OFF THE LIP --> REENTRY

ON SHORE: Wind from the direction of the sea that make the wave CLOSE and break without strength. Not so good surfing conditions. (Otherwise --> OFF SHORE).


PEAK: Zone where the waves start to break. One beach may have several PEAKs.

POINTBREAK: Waves breaking along one end of the side edge of a bay. Advantages: long waves and constant, it is easy to reach the PEAK. Disadvantages: Many POINTBREAKs have a rocky bottom and therefore a higher risk of injury


QUALIFICATION OF A SURF INSTRUCTOR: Surfing has become very fashionable. So there are every day more and more surfers that are opening surf schools and claim to be teachers without the right qualifications or sometimes without any qualifications. There are also surf schools whose directors are qualified surf instructors but the monitors working for them have no qualifications. Is advisable to check, before signing up, that all courses are taught by a teacher with a degree approved by the "European Surfing Federation (ESF). And also if the monitors have a DEGREE IN PHYSICAL ACTIVITY AND SPORT SCIENCE, even better ...


RAILS: The edges of the surfboard.

REAFBREAK: Waves breaking on a rocky or coral bottom. Advantages: fast waves, hollow and constant, it is easy to reach the PEAK. Disadvantages: Increased risk of injury once under water, suitable only for experts

REENTRY: Go through a section of the wave that is already breaking, to continue along the wall of the wave after passing the broken section.

REGULAR FOOT --> NATURAL FOOT

RIGHTHANDER: A wave, seen from the break that is surfable to the right, seen from the beach it is a wave surfable to the left.

ROCKER: The curvature of the surfboard, looking at the profile.


SECOND SKIN: Lycra shirt, a synthetic fiber that protects against the friction of the wetsuit. It also serves to replace the suit when it's hot.

SET: A group of waves higher than on a regular basis. Within hours the number of waves in a SET and the time between two SETs are more or less constant, within a longer period can vary considerably.

SHAPE: Shape of the surfboard.

SHAPER: A person who manufactures handmade surfboards.

SHORE BREAK: Wave breaking directly on the shore that carries a greater risk of injury.

SHORTBOARD: Short boards for advanced and expert surfers.

SPOT: --> PEAK

STOKED: State of ecstasy after an awesome surf session.

SURF LESSONS: Superior quality since 1995 by www.surfnsoul.com: Surfing lessons by professional instructor. In the natural paradise of Cantabria. Proven teaching method for many years and founded on the science of sport. Infomation at www.surfnsoul.com.


TAIL: The tail of the surfboard.

TAKE OFF: The start of catching a wave: Paddling, stand up and start.

TOP TURN: Drawn curve at the top of the wall of the wave to return to the bottom.

TUBE: Wave breaking in a tube.


U: Any ideas for a word that starts with U ...


V: Any ideas for a word that starts with V ...


WAX: A special wax so placed on the top of the table to avoid slipping.

WIPE OUT: Losing the wave by a fall of the board uncontrolled.


X: Any ideas for a word that starts with X ...


YUHUU ... !!!: Expression of a surfer that lives absolutely (but unfortunately so fleeting) in the Now and Here ... sources that are lost in the mists of history speak of different variations and accents.


Z: Any ideas for a word that starts with Z ...


© Martin Zawilla 1996 - 2010


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